BESTIES, BFF'S, COMBOS

Classic food pairings are like best friends. Meat and potatoes, spaghetti and meatballs, red beans and rice, chocolate and raspberries, tomatoes and basil …I could go on forever. These classic combos enhance and play off each other on your palate often teasing you into wanting more. Ah, tongue titillating bliss.

As a chef, I often wonder how these food unions are born. Who thought of the bistro menu BFF’s of steak and frites or the Italian combo of sausage and peppers? Was there some culinary deity who deemed that for all of gastronomic eternity we shall eat and love peaches and cream?

Sometimes I like to push the envelope and come up with my own blends. But I am always careful. It’s like wearing jewelry. There is a fine line and one piece of bling too many between chic and trashy.

I have seen a lot of menu train-wrecks from chefs and many of them from TV food personalities trying to be oh so au courant. Before you dip your toe into the menu writing waters you need to look at the highlight of the menu and then pick items that are seasonal, regional and complimentary, not items that are fighting for attention and blowing each other away in your mouth. Maybe there was a culinary deity and the classic pairings are truly heavenly.

Recently, there was a bit of a scuffle regarding our President and a corned beef sandwich with dare I say it-Mayo!
Let’s skip over the part that he actually went to a corporate deli that had practically eaten alive the as David Sax put it in SAVE THE DELI “revered Jewish deli institution” of Rascal House, I could rant about that forever-seriously Mr. President?, but that a classic Jewish amalgamation of Corned Beef and mustard on Rye was violated in a most sacrilegious way. Don’t you know Mr. President that when someone orders a corned beef sandwich with mayonnaise-somewhere a Jew dies?

It turns out the shanda sandwich was actually for a congressman and not for the President. Seems that Mayo-gate is not so bad after all. Or is it? Jew or not-President or not, I am a chef and am really, really upset.

I personally have “freaked out” at customers when asked for a side of white rice to go with a steak. Come on-a steak crackling and sizzling right off the grill is screaming for a potato of some kind. And some crispy, salty onions too!
There was the time a local and regular customer asked for ketchup to go with his Boeuf Bourguignon. After I beheaded the poor innocent waiter for asking for the offending item-I tongue lashed the customer and then cried in the cooler. The Humanity!

Why, if I were behind the counter at the corporate deli-President or not, I would have advised him of the sandwich snafu. You cannot just go around doing things like that. It is as weird as clashing colors or atonal music. It’s not natural. It’s not right.

The point here is that some things are meant to go together. It’s natural. We should celebrate and enjoy classic combinations. And if you cannot-at least get the mayo on the side.

YOU SAY GRANITA-I SAY GRANITE

Duo of Watermelon Granites

Prowl the farmers market and you will find different colors and varieties of watermelon. There is nothing more refreshing than a slice of cold watermelon-except for these simple and quick watermelon ices.I love the color and fragrance of these granites (French) or granitas (Italian). A granite is really a flavored ice that has been stirred frequently during the freezing process to yield a coarse crystal. The general rule is 4 parts liquid to 1 part sugar. Feel free to add just a splash of vodka or other favorite liquor and fresh herbs for an Iron Chefesque touch. If the mixture sits for several days in the freezer and becomes too hard, simply thaw it completely and refreeze it.

Red Seedless Watermelon Granite

4 cups of red seedless watermelon-cut into large chunks
1 cup sugar
½ teaspoon lemon juice
¼ cup chopped fresh mint, basil, thyme or other favorite herb (optional)

1. Process the melon, sugar and lemon juice in a blender or food processor until completely smooth and combined
2. Place the mixture in a shallow pan in the freezer
3. Every hour or so, scrape the granite with a fork to form loose coarse crystals.
4. Serve in chilled dessert or martini glasses with golden seedless watermelon granite (optional)
5. Garnish with chopped mint, cut up fruit such as kiwi, berries, melon or cucumbers (optional)

Golden or Yellow Seedless Watermelon


4 cups of golden or yellow seedless watermelon-cut into large chunks
1 cup sugar
½ teaspoon lemon juice
¼ cup chopped fresh mint, basil, thyme or other favorite herb(optional)


1. Process the melon, sugar and lemon juice in a blender or food processor until completely smooth and combined
2. Place the mixture in a shallow pan in the freezer
3. Every hour or so, scrape the granite with a fork to form loose coarse crystals.
4. Serve in chilled dessert or martini glasses with red seedless watermelon granite (optional)
5. Garnish with chopped mint, cut up fruit or heirloom tomato salad (optional)

CORN IS AS HIGH AS AN ELEPHANT’S EYE

Corn 101

I eat corn only during the month of August. It is not that I do not like corn-it is that I only like it when it is fresh off the stalk and locally grown. There is nothing like corn that is sweet, firm and tasting of sunshine. Frozen corn tastes like….well, nothing and corn shipped out of season from wherever you live just doesn’t cut it either. I also only eat corn from a farmer I trust. I do not want the mass produced over sprayed and GMO stuff. I want real corn-the way nature intended it.

The best place to purchase corn is from a farmer’s market where it is picked that day. Peel back some of husk to expose the kernels. The kernels should be pale yellow and/or white and very plump. The husk should be fresh looking with the corn silk being very soft and pliable. Using your thumb nail, poke an end kernel. It should squirt forth milky white sap. Under ripe corn will contain a watery liquid; overripe corn will have a tough skinned kernel with doughy interiors.

The period of peak freshness for sweet corn is measured in minutes not hours or days. The best corn is simply the freshest corn. Storing sweet corn for long periods of time will destroy it. The sugar quickly turns to starch, losing flavor, quality and most of all sweetness. If you must store sweet corn, use perforated plastic bags and get it into the refrigerator as soon as possible. Warm temperatures hasten the conversion process. Try to use the corn within 1 to 2 days and do not husk until just prior to cooking. So basically you are running to the famer’s market, rushing home and cooking corn all within minutes of the corn having been picked.
That means planning ahead. When the CORN IS AS HIGH AS AN ELEPHANT’S EYE (Oklahoma-Rodgers and Hammerstein) it is time to pull out your favorite corn recipes. Here are a few to get you started.

Grilled Corn with Lime and Chipotle Aioli

Simple and delicious. Don’t worry about looking messy while eating corn on the cob. Once the corn is cooked, cut the cob into 2-3 inch rounds (use a heavy duty knife) and serve on a platter, lightly drizzled with aioli and extra lime wedges.

6 very fresh ears of corn
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Juice of 2 limes plus 1 whole lime cut into wedges
1 chipotle chile from canned chipotle in adobo, chopped finely (commonly found in most grocery stores)
½ cup homemade aioli or store bought
Kosher salt and pepper


1. Heat a grill or grill pan to medium. Peel back the corn husk but leave it attached. Strip off the corn silk and discard. Brush the corn with olive oil and place on the grill. Grill the corn until the kernels are lightly browned and are easily pierced with a sharp knife.
2. Whisk the aioli, chipotle and lime juice together in a small bowl.
3. Cut the ears of corn into 2 inch rounds. Drizzle with the aioli and serve with additional lime wedges.







Corn Chowder

1 red onion, diced
2 garlic cloves finely minced
1 roasted red pepper
1 tablespoon smoked paprika
Olive oil
6 ears fresh sweet corn
2 cups chicken or vegetable stock
Salt and pepper
Suggested garnishes: cheddar cheese (if serving dairy), smoked salmon, chopped scallions, fresh cilantro

1. Place the onion, garlic and roasted pepper in a food processor and process until coarsely ground.
2. Heat a large sauté pan lightly coated with olive oil over medium heat. Add the sofrito (ground vegetables) and the smoked paprika. Cook the mixture until it most of the water had cooked out of it and the flavors are very concentrated.
3. Place a small bowl turned upside down in a larger bowl. Place an ear of corn on top of the upside down bowl and using a knife, scrape down the kernels into the larger bowl. Be sure to scrape the ear of corn firmly to get all of the corn “milk” out.
4. Add the corn to the sofrito. Add the stock and reduce the heat to medium low. Cook until the corn is cooked through. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve the corn chowder hot or cold. The soup can be stored, covered in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

GAZPACHO 101

(HOW TO KEEP YOUR COOL WHEN THE SCHVITZ IS ON)


When the heat is on and you cannot bear the thought of turning on the oven-keep your cool with refreshing gazpacho. Gazpacho originated in Spain as an afternoon snack. The true Andalusia version has almonds, bread, grapes, olive oil, vinegar and salt. Sometimes, anchovies are added. It is peasant food that utilizes leftover ingredients. The bread is soaks up water, and then the mixture is pounded with a mortar and pestle. The gazpacho is creamy and refreshing.

The gazpacho that we know came after Columbus when he brought peppers and tomatoes to Spain. The secret to great gazpacho is not to let any one ingredient be more pronounced than any other. The whole dish should be in harmony and very subtle and delicate in flavor.

Be sure to use your best olive oil for gazpacho. Because the gazpacho is not cooked, the flavor of the oil is very important. I use an unfiltered, organic Spanish extra virgin olive oil. It is delicious and I only use it for salads, cold soups and finishing sauces.

When the weather is hot and you do not feel like cooking, you can still entertain with style. Whirr up several gazpachos, pour some sangria and enjoy.

Recipes adapted from my book JEWISH COOKING FOR ALL SEASONS (John Wiley and Sons)


Tomato Gazpacho
This is a version of the soup that we commonly eat here in America. It is refreshing and delicious

4 garlic cloves
2 teaspoon kosher salt
1 red bell pepper-seeded and de-veined
1 small English cucumber-peeled and seeded
2-3 pounds very ripe tomatoes
1 cup of soft bread torn into pieces-left over challah trimmed of crust will work nicely
¼ cup rice vinegar
Splash of sherry (optional)
1/3 cup Extra Virgin olive oil-use your best tasting oil here
2 cups unsalted tomato juice
1 teaspoon pimenton*
Salt and pepper

1. Place all of the ingredients in a food processor or blender and process until very smooth and the mixture is peach colored.
2. Cover the gazpacho and chill it completely before serving. Adjust slat and pepper to taste.
3. Garnish with: herbed croutons, chopped cucumber, fresh parsley, chopped egg, Extra Virgin olive oil, hot chilies, roasted peppers. Use your imagination!

• **Pimenton is a Spanish smoked paprika. It is really not comparable to the paprika found in most grocery stores. It has a wonderful sweet smokiness essential to Paellas, chorizo and other Spanish delicacies. Pimenton can be found readily on-line or at specialty markets and at The Spice House on-line.


White Gazpacho (Ajo Blanco)
This is a version of the classic gazpacho from Andalusia. I love this version. It is beautiful in a glass bowl or a wine glass.

4 cloves garlic
1 quart of ice cold water
2 cups soft bread-crusts removed
6 ounces blanched almonds
2 cups of green grapes-peeled
¼ cup rice vinegar
Splash of sherry
1/3 cup Extra Virgin olive oil-Use your best tasting olive oil
Salt and pepper


1. Place All of the ingredients in a food processor or blender and the process until very smooth. Add the reserved water to adjust the consistency.
2. Chill the gazpacho until it is very cold. Garnish with toasted almonds, grapes and flat leaf parsley.


Green Gazpacho (from Axarquia in Malaga)
This is a gazpacho that really highlights the vegetation of the mountains in Malaga. This version is a “shepherd’s gathering soup”. I love the herbaceous flavor and bright green color. I feel cool and refreshed just looking at this gorgeous concoction.

2 cloves garlic
1 small bulb of fennel-fronds removed and saved for garnish
2 cups watercress leaves or favorite lettuce
¼ cup flat leaf parsley leaves
¼ cup mint leaves
¼ cup rice vinegar
Splash of sherry (optional)
1/3 cup Extra Virgin olive oil-use your best tasting olive oil
1 quart of ice cold vegetable stock or water
Salt and pepper



1. Place all the ingredients in a food processor or blender. Process until the gazpacho is completely smooth. Adjust consistency if necessary.
Chill the gazpacho completely before serving.
2. Garnish with fresh aioli, chopped mint, diced cucumber, reserved fennel fronds.


Gazpacho
This version is pure American and playful. I love cold food and am always looking for new ways to show off the flavors of food when chilled.

2 cloves garlic
3 pounds yellow tomatoes-or favorite heirloom tomatoes, roasted, peeled and seeded
1 cup yellow watermelon
1/3 cup Extra Virgin olive oil-Use your best tasting olive oil
¼ cup rice vinegar
Splash of sherry
1 quart ice cold water
Salt and pepper

1. Place all the ingredients in a blender or food processor. Process until smooth. Chill thoroughly before serving.
2. Garnish with watermelon cubes, diced tomatoes, aioli, flat leaf parsley.

CAN SHE BAKE A CHERRY PIE, BILLY BOY, BILLY BOY?

Dessert is often the forgotten course. It is the final frontier for many busy cooks who want to put out a nice meal but simply do not have the time. Skip the purchased cookies, chiffon cake and pre-cut fruit from the salad bar (I know you cheat and buy the fruit pre-cut!). Never Fear-this simple, gorgeous summer tart will make you look like a kitchen deity. It is cherry season and the market is bursting with these dazzling garnet colored gems. Scoop them up while you can, pit them and freeze them. They will last for months in the freezer. Delish!



Cherry Tart Crust

(No rolling pins, flour everywhere and cracked crusts. Just pat the dough into the pan and chill-you and the dough!)

¼ cup butter, softened
½ cup sugar
1 cup all purpose flour
½ teaspoon vanilla extract
1 teaspoon lemon juice
Pinch of salt

1. Process the butter and sugar in a food processor until the mixture resembles a coarse meal.
2. Add the flour, vanilla, lemon juice and salt. Pulse until the mixture pulls together and forms a ball.
3. Remove from the processor and gently knead the dough together.
4. Press the dough evenly into a 9” false bottom tart pan that has been lightly greased.
5. Chill the tart dough for one hour or overnight until it has firmed up.

For the filling

Cherry Tart

1 cup Bing cherries, pitted
1 cup sour cherries, pitted
¼ cup sugar
1/3 cup cornstarch
Zest of one lemon

1. Toss all of ingredients together for the filling.
2. Place the tart filling into the chilled crust.

Streusel Topping

4 tablespoons butter
1/3 cup flour
¼ cup sugar
¼ cup chopped almonds
Pinch of salt

1. In a large bowl, mix all of the ingredients together with your hands until the mixture forms pea sized clumps.
2. Evenly sprinkle the streusel over the cherries.
3. Bake the tart in the pre-heated oven for 40 minutes until the crust has lightly browned and the cherries are juicy.
4. Chill before serving.

SIM PLE PLEASURES

Summertime is all about nostalgia. I love summer nights and crave the childhood treats that made summer so memorable. One of my favorite memories is of making S’Mores. We used to gather round the dying charcoal from a grill or campfire and toast (and burn) marshmallows and assemble the classic and messy delicious sandwiches.

My great grandmother’s graham cracker cake (featured in my cookbook JEWISH COOKING FOR ALL SEASONS-John Wiley and Sons) sates my craving for S’mores with a fun and modern twist. I make the cake into cupcakes and decorate them with rich and velvety dark chocolate ganache. Then for a fun twist-I garnish with mini marshmallows which I toast with a mini butane torch. The torch part is optional-but torches can be easily purchased from a hardware store.

S’MORES CUPCAKES

4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 cup sugar
3 large eggs, separated
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 1/4 cups graham cracker crumbs
2 teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon kosher salt
¾ cup milk

Preheat oven to 350
Line a muffin tin with cupcake cups

1. using a mixer, cream the butter and sugar, occasionally scraping down the bowl, until they are light and fluffy (about 5 minutes).
2. With the mixer running, add the egg yolks, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Add the vanilla and scrape down the bowl, one more time.
3. Stir together the crumbs, baking powder and salt.
4. turn the mixer to low and alternately add the dry ingredients and the milk in batches, beginning and ending with the dry mixture.
5. In a clean dry bowl with clean beaters, whip the egg whites until they are medium peaks. Fold the whites into the cake batter and divide the batter between the cupcake cups filling each one about ¾ up to the top.
6. Bake the cupcakes until the tops spring back when lightly pressed (about 12 minutes). Cool on a cooling rack.

For the Ganache
2 cups heavy cream
½ cup confectioner’s sugar
1 vanilla bean, scraped, reserve the pod
1/8 teaspoon of salt
1 pound bittersweet chocolate, chopped

1. In a large saucepan, bring 2 cups heavy cream, 1/2 cup confectioners' sugar, scraped vanilla bean and the pod and salt to a simmer. Remove from heat; add the chopped bittersweet chocolate and let stand, without stirring, for 1 minute. Whisk just until combined. Refrigerate, stirring occasionally, until spreadable, about 1 hour.


Spread or pipe the cooled ganache over the cupcakes. Garnish with mini marshmallows. Brulee the marshmallows with butane torch for toasted marshmallow effect (optional).

FALLING IN LOVE ALL OVER AGAIN

As a chef I am always looking for new flavors and ingredients. Sometimes I fall in love with a familiar ingredient all over again and will spend weeks experimenting with it in new combinations. My new/old favorite ingredient is Pimenton Ahumado. This stuff is quite simply the bomb!

Pimenton Ahumado is smoked Spanish paprika. Made from the highest quality of peppers and smoked over oak, the flavor and aroma of pimenton ahumado is earthy, smoky-sweet and mouth wateringly delicious. I started using smoked paprika many years ago in my first restaurant and may have taken it for granted. It is only after playing with it recently, that I discovered how thrilling this simple ingredient can be to any dish. I cannot find anything that is not improved by this stuff.

Pimenton Ahumado is not your mother’s paprika. The stuff from Hungary will add color to a dish-but really has no flavor and tastes like dust. The good smoky paprika rocks and turns every dish into a flavor packed, mouth exploding experience.

A key ingredient in many Spanish dishes such as paella, chorizo and sofrito, the versatility of the product is amazing. For all of you kosher eaters-the paprika adds a smoky flavor that tastes and smells of burning wood (this is a good thing) and if added to a dish can kind of be mistaken for bacon (ok-it has been a long time since I have eaten bacon, but if you close your eyes-it seems like it might be in there!)

Outside of Spain pimentón ahumado is often referred to as simply "smoked paprika" and can be found in varying intensities from sweet and mild (dulce), medium hot (agridulce), or very hot and spicy (picante). I purchase my pimenton ahumado at the Spice House or online at http://www.thespicehouse.com/

I use the pimenton ahumado in my paella, braised short ribs, roasted chicken, homemade potato chips, BBQ sauce, baked beans …..and more

Add this seasoning to your arsenal and see if you don’t fall in love with this product just as I did.


Spanish Style Lamb Sausage
with Smoky Pepper and Onion Potato Salad


for the lamb

serves 4 as an entrée or 8 as a tapas portion

3 pounds ground lamb
2 egg yolks
¼ cup finely chopped fresh parsley
¼ cup finely chopped fresh summer savory
1 tablespoon pimenton ahumado (smoked paprika)
1 teaspoon garlic powder
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper

1. Mix all of the above ingredients together in a large bowl. Do not over mix or the lamb will be tough.
2. Portion the lamb mixture into 2 ounce portions. Roll the meat into cylinders. Insert a skewer into the lamb and refrigerate to firm up.
3. Heat a grill or grill pan to medium high. Grease the grill with olive oil and brown the skewers on all sides (about 7 minutes).

Smoky Potato Salad

2 red peppers
1 large Spanish onion
3 cloves of garlic
Olive oil
2 tablespoons pimenton ahumado
Pinch of saffron threads
3 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
3 pounds new potatoes
¼ cup chopped fresh parsley
Salt and pepper


1. Process the peppers, onion and garlic in a food processor until finely ground.
2. Heat a large sauté pan lightly coated with olive oil over medium heat and cook the pepper mixture until it is dry. (You want the excess water to cook out of the vegetables and concentrate the flavors. Add the pimenton, saffron and vinegar. Stir to combine and remove from the heat to cool.
3. Boil the potatoes, unpeeled, until a paring knife can piece the potatoes easily. Cut the potatoes into wedges while they are still warm and toss with the vegetable mixture. Add the parsley and salt and pepper to taste.
4. Garnish with your best Extra virgin olive oil (my favorite is from Spain)
Serve warm or cold.